Left London by Eurostar and arrived happily in Paris. Hard not to feel happy in Paris, the city is amazing and in this case weather was balmy, crowds not to heavy and I was really anticipating a great time. Hotel Bedford is great, very helpful, although at first I didn’t understand that. My hotel needs are fairly specific. No low beds, the futon is my enemy, and no step over the bath to access the shower. For OH&S reasons this is actually quite dangerous, given I walk with a cane and am arthritic. The hotel staff were worried that the rooms which best met my requirements were not their usual bigger rooms, but I was delighted with my accommodation. Lovely view over Parisian rooftops and an extremely comfortable set up which met my needs exactly.
Palais Garnier is quite close to the hotel but too far to walk so I had my annual discussion with the taxi driver who knows all. I did the usual polite greeting and asked to be taken to the Palais Garnier, but he corrected me several times that it was the Palais DE Garnier. (Care factor Zero, and it turned out he was wrong!!) Anyhow had to go to the ticket office as for some reason my computer wouldn’t print out the ticket.
I asked at the ticket office if I needed to go back around the building and up the stairs, because the PG has significant steps out front. No problem. A charming young man escorted me through the building, up lifts and so on to my seat, absolutely fantastic experience. Free tour of the building and a personal escort. The concert was interesting as an exercise in several cultures. An Italian singing the WinterReise in Paris is quite a mix. Singing the WinterReise is very hard, it’s a “nowhere to hide’ piece with just the singer and piano, darned close to being naked on stage in terms of artistic exposure. And Signor had a cold. We knew this because he acted out the cold with a wonderful level of braggadocio. And a Pavarotti sized hanky. Not that it was the size of Big Lucy, just the size of hanky Pavarotti used to favour. Paris is not forgiving. The poor bloke was slightly off on 3 notes in a 90 minute performance and 3 people walked out. There was no standing ovation, except for the American woman in the row in front of me, and one curtain call. Truly savage!!
Soissons
My fixation on ABC Tourism ( Another Bloody Church for those who are less enthusiastic) led me to take the train to Soissons to see the Cathedral. Easily done, French trains are great and I easily got a taxi from the station to Cathedral. Might have been easier to book her to return in an hour but … you never know these things at the time. Church is wonderful with work being undertaken and with some interesting garages with an ecclesiastical theme as well!!
In the absence of a taxi rank I found a tea shop and a marvellous proprietor with great conversation, a welcome cup of Earl Grey, and a great line in Maxim’s chocolates. She called a taxi for me and we returned to the station via the Ruins of the Abbey. Chatted with a young chap on the platform, he kindly moved his luggage so I could sit down, and we continued the conversation on the trip into Paris. Good to be open to conversation, and we’re still in Facebook contact. Easy trip back to Paris and some great times just exploring the streets and ended the day with a really pleasant meal, catch up with friends and generally enjoy Paris.
Louvre
Always a good venue despite the queue, but I was determined not to buy more entrance tickets than I could use. Got there early and lined up. Have to admire the guys who sell bottles of chilled water and fans to the assembled masses. Entry slowed by security checks and finally managed to find the exhibition of Bulgarian gold. Superb material, well curated but without a catalogue. Also would love to have handled the merchandising. The exhibition had some wonderful pieces and I simply couldn’t understand why there was not companion selling of jewellery, maybe by Bulgari, and books and post cards. Went from the Louvre to the Velasquez and Tudor exhibitions by which time my feet, legs and back were involved in their own dance of pain. Actually getting out of the Louvre can be exciting, especially when the escalator isn’t working. There is a lift but it doesn’t seem to lead to an actual exit. In the event I waited for a break in the people traffic and clambered up the broken escalator. We were all disgorged onto the Rue de Rivoli. However it is easier to get a taxi if you go back into the Louvre Courtyard and pick one up as they drop off the museum going late comers.
Grabbed a restorative cup of tea at Marriage Frères in the Louvre centre, lovely theatre but you could visit the actual theatre for the price!!
On suitcases. And why old ladies shouldn’t lift them.
Sometimes I just do dumb things. Lifted my suitcase in an awkward way and heard an ominous cracking sound. Not good as I was heading to Munich the next day by train. However I took my pain killers, and thanks to Panafen made the train. Again I use assistance from porters especially when pain levels are measuring on the Richter.
The trip from Paris to Munich was relatively uneventful and I arrived feeling very out of sorts and a bit confused. Panafen is good stuff! I knew my hotel was close and had loaded my cases into a taxi before realising that the hotel was just across the ( rather large) parking lot. If you’re going to be unwell the Sofitel is a great option. Was in too much pain to get out and about, had to cancel and miss some intended visits and was a virtual prisoner in the Sofitel. Which isn’t bad!!
Massage rituals can be very annoying.
I was trying to get my back sorted without resorting to drugs, don’t like feeling dopey, and tried a massage. The salon was very well organised but with lot of rituals. You arrived and were offered a robe and a glass of water or champagne in the really low reclining chairs and so on and on. I genuinely do not do my nut often but this was too much. I had barely made it to the salon, and found myself saying that I didn’t want the rituals just to go into a room, strip and get on the table and have my sodding back fixed. And so it happened. That bought me a day of improved mobility until the pain hit again. I asked the hotel to call a doctor.
My mother tells me… trust me, I’m a Doctor.
A knock on my door and I opened to a chap dressed in black jeans and T-shirt, leather jacket and a black bandanna on his head. We both looked shocked, and he said My “Mother tells me I should dress more corporately, I’m the doctor” Before I thought I said, ‘Listen to your Mother” A very efficient check of my back followed and he said I had pinched a nerve, three injections and some strong analgesics later, he said that he’d been quite shocked to see me because I looked just like his mother. He had a photo, and poor woman, it was true. Anyway the injections worked and I was much improved.
Train to Munich Venice
This is not the most modern train but it is comfortable and it travels through some of the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen as the train goes through the Brenner Pass. I usually find mountain scenery quite intimidating but this was spectacular. Didn’t get a window seat unfortunately and the people who had them slept through the entire trip. Sometimes you just want to SLAP! But easy trip and assisted by train staff with my luggage. The hotel in Munich had contacted and asked for me to be assisted in Venice and I was met by two chaps who AFTER the train crew had unloaded my bags, turned up with a wheelchair and a second guy who immediately complained that he’d only been told I had one bag. I told them they were not needed, loaded my had bag on top of the 4 wheeler and wheeled it all down the platform. These guys are paid to do a job and are less help than the much maligned touts who at least deliver service.
Traps for the unwary at Ferrovia St Lucia Venice.
First, best not to arrive with a slight case of pain killer!! I’ll explain the mistakes I made and then give the solutions.
When you exit the train station there is a flight of steps between the exit and the canal. Usually there are beautiful young things sitting on the steps and, out of consideration they leave the centre of the steps clear and occupy the area near the handrail!! Not helpful!! I walked along until I found a clear handrail, got down with suitcase and was helped by a porter. I took a water taxi to San Marco. The water taxis are quicker, though more expensive, however they have very high steps in and out. But I assumed that, given I was using a cement quay at the beginning of the trip, it would be the same at San Marco, not so. The taxi driver called ahead and arranged a porter to met me at San Marco, very helpful and necessary. When we got to San Marco I was horrified to find that the pier was actually wooden and sort of floating. The porter was there and got my luggage and mercifully he waited to assist me. The water taxi was 60 euros, a lot for a service that didn’t work for me.
Usually I can manage most situations if left to handle my own physical limits but the Taxi guy wanted to help and decide to give me a push while sort of dancing around me and shouting that I shouldn’t be stressed. Stressed! I was ready to do murder! Upshot was I fell awkwardly and almost lost my walking stick in the canal. Wasn’t too worried, I’m convinced that if I’d fallen in the canal. I’d most likely bounce off the bloody effluvium, but it was still awkward and of course it activated all the back pain again. Spectacular bruising too.
Mercifully the porter dismissed the boat guy, and I’d love to know what he said, extended a very strong arm, allowed me to make my own way to solid ground, and so it was OK.
Lessons learned about Venice train station and blokes with boats.
When exiting St Lucia pause to admire the view and then proceed to the ramp at the right hand of the building. It is easy for wheelchairs and even old ladies with suitcases. Move across the piazza to the ticket office and buy a ticket on the public boat. At current costs this is about 7 Euros. Get in line and usually a chap from the boat crew will assist with your case, move into the cabin and there are special seats at the front set aside for the disabled, for pregnant women and those over 70. Often these will be occupied by teenage girls or children, ask them to move. There are also anchor points for wheelchairs if these are needed. I don’t use a chair, so can’t really comment. At San Marco boat stop, regardless of which service you use, there will be two lots of stairs between the boat and the Piazza San Marco. I pay someone to haul the suitcase over the stairs, currently this is 10 euros, and then wheel my way to my hotel. I usually stay at the Hotel Concordia in Calle Largo. My suggestion is to research your stop and if your hotel offers to meet you, accept the service. Paying porters is cheaper than a water taxi and you will always feel better not hauling cases over stairs.
Of course if you’re fit and healthy run free and enjoy Venice, but for the disabled it really is a bit of a nightmare.
Left luggage at St Lucia
The left luggage office is open while there are trains, another area where the internet is inaccurate! It is very efficient. the costs are reasonable. I used it during this trip and it saved my a lot of effort.
Orient Express.
I had based my trip around the availability of a single night on the Orient Express from Vienna to Prague. Frankly anything longer would have been too expensive for me and I only wanted the experience, not to actually buy the train!
I booked through Railbookers and their service was excellent. Got my luggage tags etc at my hotel and caught the public boat back to St Lucia. I was a bit early and the train was at the station but actual access was very time specific. This, it turns out allows the staff to formally welcome all travellers. It’s a lovely gesture but with the lack of seating at St Lucia, it’s one I could have done without. The steps up to the train are huge and very high, quite an exercise to get aboard, of course there are ramps for wheelchairs but nothing for the walking disabled. I was in carriage A which looked like a good idea as it was the first one. Later I realised the dining car and bar were in Carriage F and G. And it’s a long walk on a wobbly platform!! Cabins are very pretty and totally bijou. If you think it through the size of the cabin is directly related to the width of the train track, with allowance for access etc. My cabin attendant was Patricius, efficient and very helpful.
First there is no private loo in the cabin and there is no shower anywhere on the train. So in getting ready for dinner its basically a lick and a promise with an artfully hidden basin which carries a warning that the water is not potable. There are lots of bottles of water and towels etc. Lovely soap, and beautiful supply of toiletries but it doesn’t make up for no shower!! AND It was cramped for one, two would have been Keystone Cops intimate!!
Dinner itself was fun. I was moved to share their table with a couple from Perth, as a couple of beautiful young things wanted to be alone. So self absorbed they didn’t even thank me! For some the age of entitlement is just how it is! Anyway great meal, good company and a lot of fun. Hiked back to the cabin and was smitten by a major case of venetian prawns.
Sleeping n the train is interesting. The beds’ length is exactly my height. And the beds are folded down and made up while the hoi polloi are dining. I noticed some really pretty ladders outside some cabins, they are for climbing into the top bunk!!
James Bond and Daniela Bianci it ain’t!
Spent most of the night dashing to the end of the corridor and back and at breakfast tried an old remedy of dry bread and jam, the pectin calms the stomach, but couldn’t manage lunch so Patricius found me what I needed, white bread, jam, honey and boiled water with sugar!! As he said the Orient Express prides itself on meeting all needs but it was the first time he’d served bread and water for lunch. One tries to be memorable.
Arrival in Czech Republic is obvious as you leave Austria, which is comparatively graffiti free, and find a cornucopia of wall art, some of it very good. Then Smichov station. The main train station in Prague is fantastic, Smichov is not the main train station. First there are no lifts and the stairs looked challenging. I hadn’t organised anyone to meet me because I hadn’t realised the limitations of Smichov, with hindsight I should have. However given the stairs looked awkward and noted a nice young man with a small tractor thing and a lot of luggage on a trailer. Aha methought, freight. And where there’s freight there’s a freight elevator. So I asked if I could go down in the elevator, Five minutes later he came back and escorted me, plus a few others including the Mexican chap in the wheelchair, down in the freight elevator and through the station. Smichov doesn’t have an ATM so I joined the taxi line with only Euros.
Waited 90 Minutes for a taxi and was much helped by another passenger as my phone wasn’t working. Got to my hotel and asked if they could pay the taxi. No, but there was an ATM, all paid and sorted, But not an easy day.
But Prague is wonderful and worth any effort needed to get there.